Studio: The Catwalk Contour

Contouring for the catwalk can vary depending on the overall look for the collection that the make-up is for.  Generally, catwalk make-up looks for Spring/Summer collections are a lot more natural, which would mean the contouring is softer too.

As a make-up artist, you need to think ahead to the final outcome and how you want the face to be structured.  There are different ways to contour the face, whether you start it from the beginning with the application of foundation, using different shades and tones in different areas of the face, or whether you contour and highlight after the foundation has been applied.  It depends on personal preference to how you contour and what products you use (cream products or powder products).

Here are some examples of contouring:

     (1)                                                                             (2)                                                                    (3)

In class this week we attempted a 'catwalk contour' and practiced in order to help us get used to different peoples face structures.

Equipment needed:

- Foundations

- Derma palette

- Primers

- Powder

- Blushers

- Make-up brushes

How to Contour and Highlight:

- Begin by finding the shade of foundation that matches your model's skin tone.
- Mix the foundation shade with a primer of your choice, depending on what finish you want.  (When practising in class, I chose to use the matte primer.)
- Apply foundation all over your model's face and neck and blend well.
- Choose a shade or two darker of foundation and draw a faint line under the cheek bones and blend it in to get rid of the harsh line.
NOTE: You can use the angle from the tragus to the corner of the mouth as a guideline.
- Build up the contour until you are happy with how it shapes your model's face.
- Highlight your model's cheekbones using a product of your choice.  (I used a concealer lighter than my model's skin tone.)
REMEMBER: Highlight along the cheekbones.
NOTE: For highlighting you can use a proper highlighter, pale eyeshadows, lighter shades of concealer or foundation, etc.
- Powder your model's face.
- Apply a blusher of your choice to the apple of the cheeks and blend it out to the hairline.
NOTE: If you use a cream blusher, do not powder before applying blusher.  Do it afterwards.

Contoured skin.

Contoured skin with blush.

Evaluation:
I think that the outcome of this task was quite successful, however it is something that I still need to practice more.  When contouring, I am used to using cream products but I would like to try out powder products the next time I do it in order to see the difference that it creates.  I think that the look that I produced was good, but probably not good enough for the catwalk because I think that it might need to be built up some more.

Photo References:

- (1) - ANON, (N.D.). London Fashion Week SS14 [digital image] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]. Available from: https://amamibeauty.wordpress.com/tag/eye-makeup/

- (2) - BEAUTYLISH, (2014). Guide to Contouring [digital image] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.beautylish.com/a/vxgzv/kevyn-aucoin-makeup-lesson-contouring

- (3) - ANON, (2013). Catwalk Trends [digital image] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]/ Available from: http://www.londonmuse.co.uk/courses/catwalk-trends/

Spring Summer 2015 Beauty Trends

Fashion week saw a range of different make-up and hair designs, from bleached out brows to sweaty skin, off-set partings to aeroplane ponytails.

VOGUE, (2014). Marc Jacobs SS15 [digital image] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/10/03/spring-summer-2015-beauty-trends-catwalk-hair-makeup/gallery/1239477

BARE FACED - Sometimes the most frequent words used backstage are 'natural', 'minimal' and real'; words being used to reflect the barely-there foundation looks.  This season was no different, with Proenza Schouler using a concealer-only method and wash-and-go-hair being seen at Dries Van Noten and Isabel Marant.  However this season was the first time model's had entered the catwalk completely make-up free, as they did at Marc Jacobs.

ANON, (2014). Backstage SS15 Trends [digital image] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/hautcosmetics/2015-new-makeup-and-hair-trends/

PURPLE - Purple is the colour of this season when it comes to eye make-up, and was seen across the board on the catwalks.  Pretty lilacs were used at Derek Lam, whilst Vera Wang opted for deep, smoky grape hues.  Sally Lapointe model's wore an icy lavender, whilst a 70s violet was seen at Matthew Williamson.

ANON, (2014). Dolce and Gabbana [digital image] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.mondobridalagency.com/blog/holiday-makeup-beauty-trends-from-the-fall-2014-and-spring-2015-runways/

RED LIP - There was a variety of red hues appearing on lips, compared to the almost lipstick-free Autumn Winter catwalks.  Rich berry hues were seen at Topshop Unique and Dolce & Gabana, whereas Burberry Prorsum and Zac Posen opted for bold scarlets, and Missoni used orange-tinged reds.

WALDHOLZ, C (2014). Givenchy SS15 [digital image] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.lifeandstylemag.com/posts/here-s-what-cara-delevingne-would-look-like-without-those-famous-eyebrows-plus-7-more-stars-with-bleached-brows-43703/photos/cara-delevingne-eyebrows-57525

BROWS - Even though big and bushy eyebrows have been the centre of past catwalks seasons, this season saw an absence of bold brows, with even Cara Delevingne's famous brows disappearing for Givenchy.  Alexander Wang and Givenchy bleached their model's eyebrows nearly invisible, whereas Prada and Miu Miu drew the eyebrows on as pencil thin slithers.

VOGUE, (2014). Valentino SS15 [digital image] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]. Available from:  http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/10/03/spring-summer-2015-beauty-trends-catwalk-hair-makeup/gallery/1267607

GILDED ADORNMENTS - A flash of gold or silver was seen as the perfect finishing touch for this season's catwalk.  Rodarte used hoop-studded brow piercings, whereas Dries Van Noten drew on gold lip rings.  In the hair, metal circle barrettes were used at the back of the head at Celine, and small golden shells and starfish were placed into romantic hairstyles at Valentino.

VOGUE, (2014). Narciso Rodriguez SS15 [digital image] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/10/03/spring-summer-2015-beauty-trends-catwalk-hair-makeup/gallery/1235528

ANTI CAT-EYE - Black eyeliner has always been favoured on the catwalk, however for Spring/Summer 2015 it is being worn from the middle of the eyes and extending past the outer corners. This idea was used at Prada, Celine and Narciso Rodriguez, but at Just Cavalli they used a bold line underneath the eye.  Tips for creating this liner look for yourself, is to keep the line straight and strong to create a graphic effect.  On the opposite end of the spectrum to the black eyeliner effects was Peter Phillips at Christian Dior and Fendi, where he stuck coloured strips of plastic and fabric in the place of eyeliner.

VOGUE, (2014). Marni SS15 [digital image] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/10/03/spring-summer-2015-beauty-trends-catwalk-hair-makeup/gallery/1253719

HIGH SHINE - Dewy complexions took centre stage at the likes of Marni, Simone Rocha and Donna Karen, whereas at Thakoon and Blumarine used lipgloss on their model's eyelids to reflect the lights on the catwalk.  At Marc by Marc Jacobs, the term 'sweaty' was used to describe the model's complexions, and Andrew Gallimore even created perspiration-inspired beads of gel for the model's faces at Teatum Jones.  Across at Prabal Gurung and Jean-Pierre Braganza, the sweaty theme was extended into the hair to create an overall appearance of perspired models.

VOGUE, (2014). Chloe SS15 [digital image] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]. Available from:  http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/10/03/spring-summer-2015-beauty-trends-catwalk-hair-makeup/gallery/1264374

OFF-CENTRE PARTING - The catwalk saw the hair neither neatly at one side of the model's heads, nor precisely in the centre, but instead slightly askew partings took the spotlight in order to keep in check with this season's trend for 'real' beauty.  Slightly off-set partings were seen at Jonathan Saunders, Chloe, Roberto Cavalli and Christian Dior, achieving a more natural feel.

VOGUE, (2014). Emilio Pucci SS15 [digital image] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/10/03/spring-summer-2015-beauty-trends-catwalk-hair-makeup/gallery/1253404

WOODSTOCK GIRLS - The 1970s was a big influence for the Spring catwalk.  Lots of denim made an appearance, and so the make-up and hair stylists reflected this with 70s influenced beauty.  Emilio Pucci, Anna Sui and Marchesa did this through woodstock waves, whereas House of Holland used shimmery eyes and Tommy Hilfiger painted stars onto the model's faces.

VOGUE, (2014). Giambattista Valli SS15 [digital image] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/10/03/spring-summer-2015-beauty-trends-catwalk-hair-makeup/gallery/1265646

LOW PONYTAIL - Ponytails were seen everywhere on the catwalk, so it was how you dressed it that made you stand out.  Stella McCartney opted for a crimped ponytail, whereas at Alexander Wang their ponytails had a sporty feel.  Prada opted for wet-look ponytails, and Giambattista Valli chose the bedhead-styled ponytails - but however the ponytails were worn, they were all worn low and at the nape of the neck which was reflected universally at the shows.

References:
- COSMOPOLITAN, (N.D.) Spring/Summer 2015 hair and makeup trends [online] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/news/g3648/spring-summer-2015-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=2
- NIVEN, L (2014). Spring Summer 2015 Beauty Trends [online] [viewed 29th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/10/03/spring-summer-2015-beauty-trends-catwalk-hair-makeup

Studio: 1950s/60s/70s Hair

In fashion, hairstyles are always recycled from previous eras with elements used to create a certain style to go with the overall look.  This week in class, we focused on hair from the 1950s, 60s and 70s, as it is important to understand where hairstyles have come from in history.  In the 1950s, the teddy boy hairstyle was popular for men, but is translated today into hairstyles for women with shorter hair.  The 1960s saw bouffant styled hair, very lifted and high.  And the 1970s was popular for a centre parting.  Below are a few examples:

1950s

1970s

1960s

In class, we were looking at creating lift in the hair in order to create a style that was inspired by one of these 3 eras.  I chose to focus on the 1960s.

Equipment needed:

- Dry shampoo
- Pintail comb
- Curling tongs
- Sectioning clips
- Kirby grips
- Hairspray

How to create 1960s Inspired Hair:
NOTE: Creating a hairstyle like this would usually begin with blowdrying the hair.
REMEMBER: It is best to work on one-day-old hair, so if your model has really clean hair, dirty it down with dry shampoo.
ALWAYS: Think of the direction you are working in, have the finished product in mind at all times.
- Using a pintail comb, create your first section to work with.  Always keep your sections clean.
NOTE: To create this hairstyle you would usually use heated rollers.  With rollers you need to make sure that the section of hair is no longer than the roller, otherwise the hair will fall out.
- Pull the section of hair forward.  This will ensure that the hair sits on the section that you created.
- Roll the ends of the hair around the tongs and curl down to sit on your section and secure with a sectioning clip or a kirby grip.
NOTE: The size of the tongs or rollers that you use with equate to the size of the curl or lift that they create.
- Leave the hair to set and continue with a few more sections, back to the crown of the head.
- Once all of the sections have cooled, take them out and backcomb them gently to create more of a lift.
- Lift each section forward and backcomb; place the comb at the mid-length and bring the comb down to the head, pull it out and repeat.
NOTE: Backcombing must be done with precision.  This way it will be easier to brush out and otherwise it can cause the model pain when undoing the hairstyle.
- Tease the hair into the position that you want it and secure with kirby grips.
- Smooth over the top layer of hair with a comb, or bring an extra layer over the top of the backcombed hair.
- Finish with some hairspray.

Evaluation:
I found the process for this hairstyle quite easy, as it was just using curling techniques.  The part I struggled with was achieving smooth curls after I had brushed them out, but products such as Vita Point helped me to achieve this.  Overall I think that I achieved this look quite well.

Photo references:

(From left to right)

- ANON, (N.D.). Elvis Presley: The 50's [digital image] [viewed 27th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://webcenters.netscape.compuserve.com/entertainment/gallery/presley2/

- ANON, (N.D.). Miley Cyrus Quiff Hairstyles [digital image] [viewed 27th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.prettydesigns.com/pompadour-quiff-hairstyles-for-women/

- ANON, (N.D.). 1960s Hairstyles [digital image] [viewed 27th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.hairstylesco.com/1960s-hairstyles/

- ANON, (2014). Hilary Duff 1960s Retro Hairstyle [digital image] [viewed 27th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.laddiez.com/women-hairstyles/5-sophisticated-1960s-inspired-hairstyles-for-women.html

- ANON, (N.D.). 1970s Wavy Hairstyle [digital image] [viewed 27th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.hairstyles123.com/hairstyles/vintage-hairstyles/1970s-hairstyles/

- POPSUGAR, (2011). Lea Michele's 1970s Hairstyle [digital image] [viewed 27th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.popsugar.com.au/beauty/How-Get-Lea-Michele-1970s-Bianca-Jagger-Inspired-Wavy-SAG-Awards-Hairstyle-13572319

My Chosen Brand

After doing more research into different beauty brands, I have finally chosen to work with Urban Decay as my brand.  I have chosen Urban Decay because they are a brand with a vast range of products and a varying colour spectrum.  I believe that with Urban Decay as my brand, I will be able to achieve a variety of different looks; being more creative in some areas, as well as toning it back for more natural looks in others.

BACKGROUND?
Claiming to be the leading, trend-setting cosmetics company, Urban Decay is definitely a beauty game-changer.  The brand has been a respected part of the industry for nearly 20 years with Wende Zomnir still in charge, as the company's Chief Creative Director.  "I feel like Urban Decay really paved the way for the big companies to try something edgier, and we've become the source for what's next in make-up", says Wende Zomnir.  She launched Urban Decay along with Sandy Lerner and David Soward in 1996, when the beauty industry was very much based around pinks, reds and beige colours.  Starting out with just 10 lipsticks and 12 nail varnishes, all bearing rich pigments and ground-breaking names, Urban Decay has built a huge following and now offers a whole range of products, from eyeshadows to lipsticks, foundations to nail varnishes.

BRANDING?
WEBSITE.

Screenshot of Urban Decay's Website Homepage.
(http://www.urbandecay.com)

Urban Decay's branding varies depending on where you are looking.  To the right is a screenshot of their website homepage.  At the top of the page they have the logo and navigation for the whole website.

COLOURING.
The key colour that runs through Urban Decay's website is purple, and it is the colour of the shelves that you would buy the products from in a shop, as well as being the colour of their eye primer packaging.  This is because purple was the colour that Wende Zomnir and Sandy Lerner originally launched the brand for, as that could not find the colour sold in any other brand.  Purple is Urban Decay's trademark colour, and will often be found on their products somewhere.

(1)

LOGO.
Urban Decay's logo is simply their initials in a funky font.  Again using the colour purple.



PACKAGING.
Urban Decay's packaging varies depending on the product, however it is always something special; never boring and the boxes you don't want to throw away.  The colours used in their packaging reflects the product, for example the Naked palettes have fairly neutral packaging, whereas the Vice palettes have more colourful packaging, as they are more colourful products.


KEY PRODUCTS?
Urban Decay has revolutionised many products, bringing highly pigmented, colourful products to the shelves of many different stores worldwide, however their most popular products are probably their NAKED collections.  Urban Decay's Naked collections range from their Naked eyeshadow palettes, to their Naked Ultra Nourishing Lipglosses, to the Naked Skin collection which holds a whole range of products in itself.  The key products from this collection, and probably from the whole of Urban Decay's products, are most definitely the Naked eyeshadow palettes, which have 'revolutionised neutrals'.
The original Naked palette was released back in 2010 with 12 shades of bronze-hued neutrals, ranging from a pale champagne to a gritty gunmetal.  The palette was one of the best-selling palettes ever, and raised so much demand that Urban Decay decided to release another one at the end of 2011/beginning of 2012; behold Naked2.  Again, the palette was released with 12 different shades, but this time they were all taupe-hued neutrals with greyish browns, a glittery copper and the blackest black.  Naked3 was then released in 2013, introducing Urban Decay lovers to 12 shades of rose-hued neutrals, ranging from a pale shimmery pink to a deep black matte with specks of red micro-glitter.

ANON, (2013). Urban Decay Naked [digital image] [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.prettygossip.com/2013/11/21/urban-decay-naked-3/

LIMITED EDITIONS?
Urban Decay has had it's fair share of limited edition products, as has every other beauty brand out there.  Making a product 'limited' or 'exclusive' makes people assume that the product will run out, and they want to be one of the few to consume it.  Urban Decay's limited edition products are always a great success and have been known to sell out within days of being released.  Their limited edition items are usually an eyeshadow palette of some sort, sometimes with an extra product added in, such as a lipstick or nail varnish.

ANON, (N.D.) Urban Decay Alice in Wonderland Palette [digital image] [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: https://www.makeupgeek.com/reviews/product/urban-decay-alice-in-wonderland-palette/

Alice in Wonderland Book of Shadows; This was a limited edition palette  created and released to coincide with the release of Tim Burton's film Alice in Wonderland, back in 2010.  The palette consisted of 16 eyeshadows, 2 eyeliners and a mini Urban Decay Primer Potion, all of which came in a pop-up box with Alice walking through a field of giant mushrooms.  Urban Decay reused already existing shades from some of their other palettes but renamed them specially for the palette.  For example, Painkiller was renamed Alice, Oil Slick was renamed Jabberwock, and Polyester White was renamed White Rabbit.

MELROSE, L (2014) Urban Decay Naked Vault 2014 [digital image] [viewed 26th Jane 2015]. Available from: http://www.llymlrs.com/2014/10/urban-decay-naked-vault-2014.html

The Naked Vault; In 2014 Urban Decay brought out the ultimate Naked dream, holding 12 of the Naked collection's items.  The Naked Vault consisted of all 3 of the Naked eyeshadow palettes, 3 shades of the Naked Flushed palettes, 3 different shades of the Naked Ultra Nourishing Lip Glosses and 3 of the 24/7 Glide-on Eye Pencils.  All items sold individually would have cost Naked fanatics £255, however the Vault cost just £180, saving you the grand total of £75.

ANON, (2014) The Mysterious Urban Decay Vice LTD Palette [digital image] [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.cosmeticaddiction.com/2014/09/the-mysterious-urban-decay-vice-ltd.html

Vice3; The Vice3 limited edition palette was released towards the end of 2014 and can still be bought from the Urban Decay website.  The palette consists of 20 brand-new shades, from a soft black to burgundy tones to a smoky red-black, all arranged into columns; neutrals on the left, jewelled shades in the middle and smoky shades on the right.

MUSE, I (2014) Urban Decay Naked on the Run Palette [digital image] [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.musingsofamuse.com/2014/11/urban-decay-naked-run-palette-coming-soon.html

Naked on the Run; This is a travel ready, all-in-one Naked kit.  The palette contains 6 new eyeshadow shades (the 5050 all-over shade double the size of the other 5 shadows), a bronzer, a blusher, a full size Ultra Nourishing Lip Gloss, a travel size 24/7 Eye Pencil and a travel size Perversion Mascara.  The Naked on the Run palette is designed for both day and night looks and if you look of the Urban Decay website, you can find tutorials for these different looks.

VOGUE, (2014) Urban Decay Pulp Fiction Collection [digital image] [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/08/14/urban-decay-pulp-fiction-make-up-collection/gallery/1220367

Pulp Fiction Collection; In Summer 2014, Urban Decay released a Pulp Fiction collection for the Quentin Tarantino film's 20th anniversary.  It was a make-up tribute to Mia Wallace and for Mia Wallace inspired Urban Decay lovers.  The collection consisted of; a blood-red Revolution Lipstick, a 24/7 Glide-on Lip Pencil, an Eyeshadow Palette that consisted of 5 eyeshadow shades, a glitter Eyeliner in gunmetal and a red Nail Varnish which mimicked the red nails that she wore in the film.

References:
- ANON, (2011) Urban Decay Naked 2 Palette [online] [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.temptalia.com/urban-decay-naked-2-palette
- NIVEN, L (2014) How To Look Like Mia Wallace [online] [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/08/14/urban-decay-pulp-fiction-make-up-collection
- KAREN, (2010) Urban Decay's Alice in Wonderland Book of Shadows Reads Just Like a Fairy Tale. In: Makeup & Beauty Blog [online]. 20th January 2010 [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.makeupandbeautyblog.com/cosmetics/urban-decays-alice-in-wonderland-book-of-shadows-reads-just-like-a-fairy-tale/
- SALTZMAN, S (2014) Urban Decay Launches the Naked Vault [online] [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.allure.com/beauty-trends/blogs/daily-beauty-reporter/2014/10/urban-decay-naked-vault-review.html

- SCHMID, W (N.D.) Wende Zomnir Celebrates 15 Years of Urban Decay [online] [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://la-confidential-magazine.com/style/articles/urban-decays-wende-zomnir-on-15-years-in-the-beauty-business
- URBAN DECAY, (N.D.) About Us [online] [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.urbandecay.com/aboutus/about-us.html
- URBAN DECAY, (N.D.) Jobs/Careers [online] [viewed 26th 2015]. Available from: http://www.urbandecay.com/careers/jobs.html
- URBAN DECAY, (N.D.) Naked [online] [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.urbandecay.com/naked
- URBAN DECAY, (N.D.) Naked On The Run [online] [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.urbandecay.com/naked-on-the-run-eyeshadow-by-urban-decay/460.html

- URBAN DECAY, (N.D.) The Naked Lineup [online] [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.urbandecay.com/naked3/landingpage-naked3.html
- URBAN DECAY, (N.D.) Vice3 [online] [viewed 26th Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.urbandecay.com/vice-3-eyeshadow-palette-by-urban-decay/246.html

Photo References:
(1) - URBAN DECAY, (N.D.) Urban Decay Logo [digital image] [viewed 26th 2015]. Available from: http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/logo/urban-decay-cosmetics-0

Choosing a Brand

Having been introduced to the project Beauty and the Brand, I was not sure if I wanted to stick with the brand that I researched over Christmas, Urban Decay.  So I went away and researched 10 other brands that have caught my attention, that I really like as well as Urban Decay or that I wanted to learn a little more about.

ANON, (N.D.). Charlotte Tilbury [digital image] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://diawho.com/beauty-for-dummies-primeiro-post-charlotte-tilbury-who/

Charlotte Tilbury is a British remake-up artist who discovered make-up when she was at boarding school in England.  She says that it 'literally changed her life', having one day tested out some mascara on herself and realising that she liked how she felt when she wore it.  Charlotte attended the Glauca Rossi School of Make-up in London and she has since worked in the fashion and beauty industry for over 20 years, having worked with the likes of Mario Testino, Stella McCartney, Kate Moss, Tom Ford, Rihanna and many more.  In 2013 she launched the Rock & Kohl festival at Selfridges, and then later in the year she released her very own line of cosmetics.  Charlotte Tilbury's cosmetics collection is known for her 10 signature looks at the heart of it, of which you can which one you wish to become.  These 10 signature looks are; The Ingénue, The Golden Goddess, The Uptown Girl, The Sophisticate, The Rock Chick, The Dolce Vita, The Bombshell, The Vintage Vamp, The Glamour Muse and The Rebel.

ANON, (N.D.). Benefit Cosmetics logo [digital image] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Benefit_sf_logo.jpg

Jean and Jane Ford are two twins from Indiana who, in 1976, flipped a coin to decide whether they opened a casserole cafe or a make-up shop.  Having their fate been chosen to chase the path to beauty, they moved to San Francisco where they opened The Face Place in San Francisco's Mission District.  In 1990 the sisters renamed the brand Benefit Cosmetics.  This was because Jane wanted a name that fitted with 'Bene!' ('good' in Italian) after returning from a trip to Italy.  Benefit went global in 1997 when a counter opened in Harrods.  Later in 2008, the brand recruited Jean's daughters, Maggie and Annie Ford Danielson, as Benefit's Global Beauty Authorities.  They travel the world to bring the brand to new markets and keep up their award winning status.  Benefit's main belief is that make-up doesn't have to be serious to look great, and that laughter is the best cosmetic that any woman could have.

TOM FORD, (2011). Tom For Beauty [digital image] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]/ Available from: http://fashionesse.com/tom-ford-beauty-make-up-skin-care-line/257700_1867251163585_1310232068_31852360_528806_o

Tom Ford is a fashion and film director from Texas.  He began studying architecture at Parsons School of Design, however switched his career path to fashion, as architecture was not his real interest.  In 1990 he became the Womenswear Designer for Gucci, to then be promoted to Gucci's Creative Director in 1994.  Ten years later in 2004, Tom Ford decided to launch his own fashion label, and then after that in 2006 he premiered Tom Ford Beauty, his line of cosmetics, with the fragrance 'Black Orchid'.  Six months later his beauty line expanded, and the launch of the uber-luxe private blend collection was here.  Tom Ford Beauty grew once again in 2010 when he released the private blend lip colour collection, and since then his beauty empire has continued to expand.  Today, his line of cosmetics holds 6 signature fragrances for both men and women, as well as a complete collection of skin treatments, make-up products and make-up brushes.

BOBBI BROWN, (N.D.). Bobbi Brown Logo [digital image] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://brands.haibao.com/brand/1751/

Bobbi Brown was intrigued by make-up ever since she was young and so went on to study theatrical make-up.  She then moved to New York in order to try and make it as a professional make-up artist, and ten years into her freelance career she had a revolutionary idea; Bobbie wanted to create a lipstick that didn't smell, wasn't dry or greasy and that didn't look artificial when applied to someone's lips.  With a chance meeting with a chemist, Bobbi's idea became reality as the chemist made the lipstick according to her specifications.  Nine more shades followed the original lipstick that the pair created, meaning that Bobbi's first lipstick set was complete.
In 1991, the ten lipsticks debuted at Bergdorf Goodman, under the name Bobbi Brown essentials.  People began to get behind Bobbi and her small brand which started to create a buzz about her, getting more and more people excited about her work.  Since then, Bobbi has created a whole range of beauty cosmetics that sell popularly all over the world and she has written five instructional beauty and lifestyle books.

LIZZKHAN, (2012). NARS Typography [digital image] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015].  Available from: https://thegreatestgra217blog.wordpress.com/2012/09/17/the-good-bad-of-typography-cosmetic-warfare-nars-vs-clinique/

François Nars is a make-up artist and photographer, as well as the founder and creative director of NARS cosmetics.  He was enchanted by fashion from a young age and went on to study at Carita Make-up School in Paris.  Upon graduating, he hit it big and moved his life to New York in 1984, before launching NARS cosmetics ten years later with a line of 12 iconic lipsticks.  François inspires self expression and imagination through his idea that there are no rules to beauty, from which he has become one of the most influential image-makers in the world.  Today NARS continues to bring high-fashion, high-style and forward thinking to beauty, with every one of their products coming with endless opportunities for self expression.

ILLAMASQUA, (N.D.). Illamasqua Logo [digital image] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://cakemarketing.com.au/cake-blog/brands-we-love-illamasqua-cosmetics/

Illamasqua is a British make-up brand that brings professional make-up to the high street and aims to empower people to express their individuality.  The brand launched in 2008 and continues as a well respected beauty brand, with make-up artists Alex Box and Spob O'Brien as Illamasqua's Creative Director and Head of Professional Development.  Illamasqua is influenced by the 1920s Berlin club scene, along with the heritage of make-up for theatre and film and various members of the 'alternative' scenes.  The brand debuted in Selfridges, Oxford Street back in 2008, but can now be found in the best retailers worldwide, along with it's very own stand alone stores in London, Leeds and Liverpool.  Illamasqua is a brand that is strongly against animal testing, which is why all of their make-up brushes are made with synthetic hairs.

DIOR, (2013). Chérie Bow [digital image] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://fashionmaniacblog.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/daria-strokous-by-steven-meisel-for.html

Christian Dior was born in 1905 on 21st January.  Aged 33, he took his first steps into fashion, and then fifteen years later in 1953, he launched his very first lipstick Rouge Dior.  Three years later the fragrance Diorissimo was created.  Sadly, in 1957 Christian Dior died, however his legacy was carried on, hence why we still have Dior fashion and beauty still today.  The year after his death, the company launched their very first powder compact.  1962 saw the launch of Dior's nail varnishes, and then four years later they launched their first male fragrance.  Dior's first skincare product Capture was created in 1986, with the year after seeing the launch of their 5 Couleurs Palette.  To this day, Dior still sells a wide variety of different products, bringing in different customers from all over the world.

ANON, (N.D.). Rimmel London Logo [digital image] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.channel4.com/explore/rimmel/

Rimmel London's story begins in 1834 when Eugene Rimmel, aged just 14, opened a perfumery with his father, which they named The House of Rimmel.  Ten years later, Eugene had become an expert perfumer and cosmetics visionary, having experimented with fragrance and colour as well as searching the world for new ingredients and ideas.  He began to develop innovative products, such as mouth rinses, scented vaporisers and fragranced pomades, and believed that advertising these products would bring more people to his business.  From here, he started publishing illustrated mail order catalogues and began putting adverts into theatre programmes.  In 1887, Eugene Rimmel sadly died, but his beauty empire was inherited by his two sons who continued to build on it.  They developed a colour line that aimed to enhance the eyes, particularly Rimmel's revolutionary mascaras, which were so popular that 'Rimmel' is the word for mascara in a number of different languages.
After World War II, Rimmel was taken on by Robert and Rose Caplin who anticipated a cosmetics boom, as this was around the time when Hollywood heroines were becoming the beauty icons of the age.  The Caplins expanded Rimmel's colour range, modernised it's packaging and launched the first ever self-selection dispenser.  Today, Rimmel aims to translate the look of London through new shades and easy to use, accessible products.

SHU UEMURA, (2013). Shu Uemura 30 Year Anniversary [digital image] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.fashionsfinest.com/blogs/item/2823-shu-uemura-30-year-anniversary

Shu Uemura was founded and named after the legendary Japanese make-up artist, Shu Uemura.  He began working as a make-up artist in 1955 and then established the Shu Uemura make-up institute in Tokyo, ten years later.  In 1971, he then created JM laboratories inc., through which he began the production of his own skincare products.  Four years later Shu Uemura founded the Japan make-up association, a syndicate for Japanese make-up artists who were inspired by the American society of make-up artists.  Later in 1982, he changed the company name to Shu Uemura Cosmetics inc. and then opened his first beauty boutique a year later in Tokyo.  In 2004, Shu Uemura launched their Tokyo Lash Bar in Shu Uemura counters worldwide.  Three years laters the brand began delving into haircare, through which the line Art of Hair was released.  Shu Uemura himself, and then in turn his brand, is inspired by the aesthetic and professional spirit of the artist, and his main belief is that good skincare is essential for creating beautiful make-up.

ANON, (2013). Ellis Faas [digital image] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://beautylook.kz/articles/persona-ellis-faas/

Ellis Faas is a make-up artist who was born and raised in the Netherlands who was originally inspired by great photographers, such as Yousuf Karsh and Serge Lutens.  She began to pursue a career in photography when she left school, however during her course she became increasingly more interested in make-up and disheartened by the technical side of photography.  This was because she found that she was modelling herself and completely changing her face with make-up, and so upon this realisation she quite her photography course in order to focus wholly on make-up.  She trained in Amsterdam and Paris and then moved back to the Netherlands where she pursued her career working as a make-up artist.

Since then she has worked with many of the world's most renowned photographers, stylists, designers and models, as well as make-up brands such as Clinique, Lanc ôme and MAC.  Ellis was even asked by L'Oréal to create a make-up line for their skincare brand, and when her contract finished in 2007, she went on to create her own brand ELLIS FAAS.  Ellis is very anti-animal testing, and so her products are only ever tested on supermodels and never animals.  Her brand sells all sorts of products, from foundations, to eyeshadows, but her signature range of products is her ELLIS RED collection.  These are a variety of lipsticks, all different shades of red.  The reason for this being that Ellis believes red to be the most signature colour, because it is the natural colour of blood and is the same within all of us.  ELLIS RED comes in three different lip textures, of which all have a number of various shades to choose from.  Creamy Lips; a traditional lipstick texture, Milky Lips; a texture slightly lighter than lipstick, and Glazed Lips; a non-sticky gloss that has higher pigments than usual lip glosses.

References:
- BENEFIT, (N.D.) About Us [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: https://www.benefitcosmetics.co.uk/brand/aboutus/aboutusoverview
- BIO.COM, (N.D.) Tom Ford Biography [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.biography.com/people/tom-ford-5936
- BOBBI BROWN, (N.D.) Bobbi's Story [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.bobbibrown.co.uk/cms/bobbi_buzz/bobbi_story_index.tmpl?cm_re=Gnav-_-BobbiBuzz-_-BobbisStory
- BOBBI BROWN, (N.D.) Our History [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.bobbibrown.jobs/bobbibrown/our-history.html
- BOF, (N.D.) Charlotte Tilbury [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.businessoffashion.com/charlotte-tilbury
- CHARLOTTE TILBURY, (N.D.) About Me [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.charlottetilbury.com/uk/about-me/
- CHESTERS, A, (2011) A brief history of NARS [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2011/nov/14/brief-history-of-nars
- DIOR, (N.D.) Since 1947 [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.dior.com/couture/en_gb/the-house-of-dior/since-1947
- ELLIS FAAS, (N.D.)  About Ellis Faas [online] [viewed online 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.ellisfaas.com/brand/about/
- ELLIE FAAS, (N.D.) Ellis Red [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.ellisfaas.com/collection/ellis-red/
- ELLIS FAAS, (N.D.) Only Tested on Supermodels [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.ellisfaas.com/brand/only-tested-on-supermodels/
- ILLAMASQUA, (N.D.) About Us [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.illamasqua.com/explore/about-us/
- ILLAMASQUA, (N.D.) Animal Testing [online] [viewed 23rd Jane 2015]. Available from: http://www.illamasqua.com/explore/about-us/against-animal-testing/
- ILLAMASQUA, (N.D.) Heritage [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.illamasqua.com/explore/about-us/heritage/
- ILLAMASQUA, (N.D.) The Art Team [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.illamasqua.com/explore/about-us/the-art-team/
- NARS, (2014) About François Nars [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://narscosmetics.co.uk/en_GB/francois-nars.html
- RIMMEL, (N.D.) About Rimmel [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://uk.rimmellondon.com/content/about-rimmel
- SHU UEMURA, (2014) Shu Uemura Timeline [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.shuuemura.co.uk/discover-shu-uemura/shu-uemura-timeline.aspx
- SHU UEMURA, (2014) The Art of Beauty [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.shuuemura.co.uk/discover-shu-uemura/shu-uemura-timeline.aspx
- TOM FORD, (N.D.) About Tom Ford [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.tomford.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-tomford-Site/default/Page-AboutTomFord
- TOM FORD, (N.D.) Our History [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://www.tomfordcareers.com/tomford/our-history.html
- YOUNG, K, (2013) Charlotte Tilbury launches her eponymous make-up line [online] [viewed 23rd Jan 2015]. Available from: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/beauty/news-features/TMG10268759/Charlotte-Tilbury-launches-her-eponymous-make-up-line.html

Studio: The Clean Catwalk Face

A 'clean catwalk face' is key for a make-up artist to be able to master, as it is an important part of the overall look and a clean face can make it easier to create a great look on top.  To create a clean catwalk face, skin care for the model is vital.  This keeps their skin in good condition, therefore making it easier for the make-up artist to make their skin seem flawless for the catwalk.

There are different types of skin bases that you can create with foundation for fashion and beauty; dewy skin, satin skin and matte skin.  Dewy and satin skin are basically the same, however dewy skin is slightly more shiny than satin skin, and satin skin is slightly more matte.  These types of skin are popular for Spring/Summer looks in adverts and on the catwalk, whereas matte skin is better for Autumn/Winter looks.  In class we attempted to create a clean catwalk face in a dewy tone and a matte tone.

Equipment needed:

- Foundations

- Derma palette

- Primers

- Powder

- Make-up Brushes

How to create a Dewy Base:

- Begin by finding the shade of foundation that matches your models skin tone in order to make the base look as natural as possible.

- Mix the foundation shade with a satin primer, and apply to their skin.

NOTE: To avoid making the foundation too heavy around the edges, apply it in the middle of the face and blend out towards the edges.

REMEMBER: Apply foundation to the neck as well if it is on show to keep skin tones matching.

- Keep the foundation shiny and do not powder to finish, as this will create a matte look.

NOTE: To make the skin appear even more natural, you can use lighter and darker tones in different areas of the face.  For example, using a shiny highlighter will make a big difference.

Dewy skin.

How to create a Matte Base:

- Begin by finding the shade of foundation that matches your model's skin tone.

- Mix the foundation with a matte primer and apply to their skin.

NOTE: To avoid making the foundation too heavy around the edges, apply it in the middle of the face and blend out towards the edges.

REMEMBER: Apply foundation to the neck as well if it is on show to keep skin tones matching.

NOTE: To make the skin appear even more natural, you can use lighter and darker tones in different areas of the face.  For example, using a shiny highlighter will make a big difference.

- To finish powder their face using a powder puff to really get the foundation to set and give it a matte look.

Matte skin.

Evaluation:

I think that the finishes of my dewy and matte skin looks are quite successful.  However I did only use foundation for the base in order to leave enough time for me and my partner to turn around, so I would like to try it again.  I think that next time I try this I will use highlighter to create a bit more contrast in the skin, and shades from the derma palette to correct other colours in my partner's skin tone.

Studio: Volumised Hair

Creating volumised hair is important within fashion and beauty, as the key technique behind creating it is blowdrying.  Blowdrying is an important technique to perfect because it is used a lot in this area of industry and is sometimes used before specifically creating a hairstyle.

Equipment needed:

- Water Spray

- Mousse

- Pintal Comb

- Sectioning Clips

- Hairdryer

- Rounded Hairbrush

- Curling tongs

How to create Volumised Hair:

- Begin by blasting the hair until the last amount of water is left in the hair.

REMEMBER: It is only the last 10% of water left in the hair that makes a difference.

- Wet down the roots of the hair with a water spray, and working mousse into the roots will help to give lift too.

- Section off the bottom section of hair and work from the bottom of the head up.

NOTE: Wet and warm hair will be easy to manipulate.

REMEMBER: Use a nozzle on the hairdryer, as this directs the flow of heat and use a rounded hairbrush for blow drying.

- Lift the hair high with the hairbrush and dry the root underneath to get lift, moving the hairdryer back and forth.

- Dry the root on top, and then move onto the mid-length of hair.

NOTE: Keep the hair pulled up at all times to get maximum volume.

- Move the brush through the hair towards you with the hairdryer on it (the hairbrush has holes in it, so this will not damage the hair on the brush), making small turns as you go.

- Hold the hairdryer in the same direction as the hair, otherwise you will end up with fly-away hairs on the surface.

- Towards the end of the hair section, shape the ends how you want them; into the face, away from the face, or straight down.

- Before the next section, you can use a cool setting on the hairdryer to cool and set the hair.

NOTE: When working on sections above the ones you have already blow-dried, be careful not to comb it into the sections that you have already worked on.

- There will be a break between sections, so to get rid of these you can gather together sections and go over it once more.

- Once you have blow-dried the hair, use a pair of tongs to curl the ends to create a small amount of volume there.

NOTE: Other ways of creating volume in the hair include; backcombing, using a pintail comb and backcombing the underneath of the hair between the root and the mid-length, and crimping.  Crimping can lift the root but shouldn't be done around the face and should be hidden.

Blow-dried hair.

Blow-dried hair with pulled out curls on the ends.

Evaluation:

I found this task quite difficult, but useful.  Blowdrying hair is a fairly new technique to me still and one that I need to practice some more.  To begin with, I wasn't holding the hairdryer in the same direction as the hair, meaning I was left with little fly-away hairs on the surface of the hair.  However I adapted how I was holding the hairdryer which helped me to correct this.  I found that I managed to create a a good lift at the root, but towards the ends of the hair sections I could not get them to curl towards the face like I wanted and they just looked a bit straggly.  Another thing that I struggled with was keeping the sections separate.  I was careful not to comb the next bit of hair onto the last section that I had worked on, however when I was blowdrying the hair and swapping the brush around, I found that I was accidentally picking up hairs from the section underneath.  This technique is one that I need to work on and try to perfect.